Acids in Cosmetics
28/08/2024
The use of acids in cosmetic formulations and their different functions represent a topic of great interest and relevance for beauty professionals.
These chemical compounds, when used correctly, can bring significant benefits to the skin, making them precious allies in beauty treatments.
In this article, we will explore the characteristics and properties of some of the most used acids in cosmetic formulations: alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), glycolic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid.
We will analyze their benefits, how to use them and how they can be effectively integrated into beauty treatments, to offer your clients optimal and personalized results.
We will also see which products from the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line are formulated with these precious active ingredients.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA): An Entire Family of Benefits
What are alpha hydroxy acids?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a family of natural, water-soluble acids that include glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid and many others. They are famous for their exfoliating, regenerating and antioxidant properties.
Benefits of Alphahydroxy acids
AHAs help remove dead cells from the surface of the skin, stimulate collagen production and improve skin hydration. They are perfect for those who want to fight the signs of aging, sun spots and improve the overall texture of the skin.
They dissolve the bonds that unite dead cells to live ones, facilitating their removal and penetrate deeply, where they promote the repair of collagen and elastin fibres.
How to Use Alphahydroxy Acids
There are many products that contain AHA, from cleansers to professional peels. It is important to start with low concentrations and increase gradually. Always recommend the use of sunscreen during the day and avoid, if possible, carrying out treatments with this type of acid during the summer.
Among the various products of the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line formulated with this active ingredient, we particularly highlight the serum AHA Peeling Serum, formulated with 34% AHA and 25% Pure Aloe Vera. This effective exfoliant effectively smoothes the surface of the skin, improving its texture. Accelerates cell turnover, repairs collagen and elastin fibres. It reduces blemishes, erases small wrinkles and signs of stress such as dull complexion and dark circles. Leaves the skin soft, elastic, compact and luminous.
Buy it here Siero AHA Peeling Serum.
Glycolic Acid: The Exfoliant Par Excellence
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is the most famous of the alpha hydroxy acids, as well as the smallest. Derived from sugar cane, this acid has a very small molecular structure, which allows it to easily penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, breaking the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum. It thus eliminates dead and damaged cells responsible for the tired and dull appearance of the skin. It stimulates the action of fibroblasts and basal cells in carrying out their natural activity.
Benefits of Glycolic Acid
But why is glycolic acid so loved? The answer is simple: it's a phenomenal exfoliant. Exfoliates the skin, removing dead cells and stimulating cell renewal. Result? Smoother, brighter and more uniform skin.
It is also particularly useful for those who struggle with blemishes, fine wrinkles and dull skin: it smoothes scars such as those caused by acne, fights hyperpigmentation due to sunspots or genetic predisposition and reduces wrinkles and signs of aging.
How to Use Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid can be found in different concentrations, from mild cleansers to chemical peels. In concentrations above 10% it has an exfoliating action: it smoothes the skin, giving a smoother and more even surface. Always remember to advise your clients to use sunscreen after treatments and avoid the use of glycolic acid in summer, as This acid can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun.
The SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line offers two products containing glycolic acid in significant percentages:
Glycolic acid is the most famous of the alpha hydroxy acids, as well as the smallest. Derived from sugar cane, this acid has a very small molecular structure, which allows it to easily penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, breaking the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum. It thus eliminates dead and damaged cells responsible for the tired and dull appearance of the skin. It stimulates the action of fibroblasts and basal cells in carrying out their natural activity.
Benefits of Glycolic Acid
But why is glycolic acid so loved? The answer is simple: it's a phenomenal exfoliant. Exfoliates the skin, removing dead cells and stimulating cell renewal. Result? Smoother, brighter and more uniform skin.
It is also particularly useful for those who struggle with blemishes, fine wrinkles and dull skin: it smoothes scars such as those caused by acne, fights hyperpigmentation due to sunspots or genetic predisposition and reduces wrinkles and signs of aging.
How to Use Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid can be found in different concentrations, from mild cleansers to chemical peels. In concentrations above 10% it has an exfoliating action: it smoothes the skin, giving a smoother and more even surface. Always remember to advise your clients to use sunscreen after treatments and avoid the use of glycolic acid in summer, as This acid can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun.
The SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line offers two products containing glycolic acid in significant percentages:
Glycolic Peel, an exfoliant based on 40% glycolic acid that smoothes, brightens and renews the skin. It penetrates deeply, promotes cell turnover, counteracting the effects of skin aging, reduces scars and stretch marks, restoring tone and elasticity.
Buy it here Glycolic Peel
The Radiance Perfect Skin Serum, a brightening and anti-hyperpigmentation serum with 10% glycolic acid. This prodigious serum gives the face a compact, uniform and luminous complexion. It refines skin texture and combats imperfections such as acne scars, wrinkles and blemishes. Renews the skin and protects it from the harmful effects of free radicals. Ideal for all skin types.
Buy it here Siero Radiance Perfect Skin
Salicylic Acid: The Enemy of Blackheads
What is Salicylic Acid?
Let's now move on to salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with a keratolytic action. This acid is fat-soluble, meaning it's perfect for penetrating clogged pores, dissolving sebum and clearing hair follicles of anything clogging them.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is the best friend of those with oily or acne-prone skin. It penetrates the pores, cleans them and reduces inflammation. Furthermore, it has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, thus preventing the formation of pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and other impurities that lead to an aggravation of acne. It also has a sebum-regulating action, as well as stimulating cell renewal.
How to Use Salicylic Acid
Including salicylic acid in your clients' routine can work wonders. There are cleansers, toners and spot treatments with variable concentrations (from 0.5% to 2%). For those with sensitive skin, it is better to start with low concentration products to avoid irritation.
In concentrations lower than or equal to 2%, salicylic acid does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun and can therefore also be used in the summer period without the risk of the formation of skin blemishes. However, always conclude the treatment with a cream containing sun protection to protect your client's skin.
Let's now move on to salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with a keratolytic action. This acid is fat-soluble, meaning it's perfect for penetrating clogged pores, dissolving sebum and clearing hair follicles of anything clogging them.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is the best friend of those with oily or acne-prone skin. It penetrates the pores, cleans them and reduces inflammation. Furthermore, it has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, thus preventing the formation of pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and other impurities that lead to an aggravation of acne. It also has a sebum-regulating action, as well as stimulating cell renewal.
How to Use Salicylic Acid
Including salicylic acid in your clients' routine can work wonders. There are cleansers, toners and spot treatments with variable concentrations (from 0.5% to 2%). For those with sensitive skin, it is better to start with low concentration products to avoid irritation.
In concentrations lower than or equal to 2%, salicylic acid does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun and can therefore also be used in the summer period without the risk of the formation of skin blemishes. However, always conclude the treatment with a cream containing sun protection to protect your client's skin.
Among the various products of the SkinSystem Dermocosmetics Line formulated with this active ingredient, we particularly highlight the Acne Rescue Serum anti-blemish serum, with 2% salicylic acid. This serum is indicated in the treatment of comedonal acne (blackheads and whiteheads), pimples, enlarged pores and hyperkeratosis. Gently eliminates dead cells from the skin surface, penetrates the internal walls of congested pores, eliminating the keratin plug, purifying and decongesting them.
Buy it here Siero Acne Rescue Serum
Mandelic Acid: Gentle but Effective
What is Mandelic Acid?
Mandelic acid is another member of the alpha hydroxy acid family, but with a difference: it is derived from bitter almonds. It has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly.
Benefits of Mandelic Acid
This acid is ideal for those with sensitive or redness-prone skin. It gently exfoliates the skin, reducing blemishes and improving texture without causing irritation. Furthermore, it has antibacterial properties as it slows down the proliferation of bacteria that cause acne and pimples, which also makes it useful for treating acne.
In asphyxiated skin or skin subject to photoaging, it eliminates the stratum corneum by promoting the regeneration of new and young cells, attenuating small wrinkles and lightening superficial blemishes. It stimulates the synthesis of new collagen, the supporting structure of the dermis, giving tone and elasticity.
How to Use Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid can be found in serums and exfoliating treatments. For your clients with sensitive skin, it is a fantastic choice to achieve glowing skin without the risk of irritation. Recommend regular use, perhaps alternating it with other more powerful exfoliants.
In particular, we recommend the use of the Mandelic Peel from the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line. This exfoliant based on 30% Mandelic Acid smoothes, illuminates and renews the skin. It penetrates deeply, promotes cell turnover, combats skin photoaging and irregular hyperpigmentation, restores tone and elasticity.
Since it is not photosensitizing, you can use this acid in your treatments throughout the year, regardless of the client's phototype.
Mandelic acid is another member of the alpha hydroxy acid family, but with a difference: it is derived from bitter almonds. It has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly.
Benefits of Mandelic Acid
This acid is ideal for those with sensitive or redness-prone skin. It gently exfoliates the skin, reducing blemishes and improving texture without causing irritation. Furthermore, it has antibacterial properties as it slows down the proliferation of bacteria that cause acne and pimples, which also makes it useful for treating acne.
In asphyxiated skin or skin subject to photoaging, it eliminates the stratum corneum by promoting the regeneration of new and young cells, attenuating small wrinkles and lightening superficial blemishes. It stimulates the synthesis of new collagen, the supporting structure of the dermis, giving tone and elasticity.
How to Use Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid can be found in serums and exfoliating treatments. For your clients with sensitive skin, it is a fantastic choice to achieve glowing skin without the risk of irritation. Recommend regular use, perhaps alternating it with other more powerful exfoliants.
In particular, we recommend the use of the Mandelic Peel from the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line. This exfoliant based on 30% Mandelic Acid smoothes, illuminates and renews the skin. It penetrates deeply, promotes cell turnover, combats skin photoaging and irregular hyperpigmentation, restores tone and elasticity.
Since it is not photosensitizing, you can use this acid in your treatments throughout the year, regardless of the client's phototype.
Buy it here Mandelic Peel
Glycyrrhetinic Acid: The Natural Calming
What is Glycyrrhetinic Acid?
Derived from licorice root, glycyrrhetinic acid is less well known than the other acids we've talked about, but it deserves attention. This acid has anti-inflammatory and calming properties.
Benefits of Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Thanks to its cortisone-like activity, but without the side effects and risks associated with the use of cortisone, glycyrrhetinic acid has strongly soothing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and healing properties. Thanks to its antioxidant activity, it is able to inactivate free radicals due to exposure to UV rays.
Glycyrrhetinic acid is excellent for calming irritated skin and reducing redness. It is especially useful for those suffering from dermatitis, eczema or rosacea. Additionally, it can help lighten dark spots due to its lightening properties.
How to Use Glycyrrhetinic Acid
You can find glycyrrhetinic acid in many soothing formulations, such as creams and serums. It's a great ingredient to recommend to your clients with sensitive or inflamed skin, to help calm and heal the skin.
Since it is not photosensitizing, it is possible to use it in treatments even in the summer period.
Derived from licorice root, glycyrrhetinic acid is less well known than the other acids we've talked about, but it deserves attention. This acid has anti-inflammatory and calming properties.
Benefits of Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Thanks to its cortisone-like activity, but without the side effects and risks associated with the use of cortisone, glycyrrhetinic acid has strongly soothing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and healing properties. Thanks to its antioxidant activity, it is able to inactivate free radicals due to exposure to UV rays.
Glycyrrhetinic acid is excellent for calming irritated skin and reducing redness. It is especially useful for those suffering from dermatitis, eczema or rosacea. Additionally, it can help lighten dark spots due to its lightening properties.
How to Use Glycyrrhetinic Acid
You can find glycyrrhetinic acid in many soothing formulations, such as creams and serums. It's a great ingredient to recommend to your clients with sensitive or inflamed skin, to help calm and heal the skin.
Since it is not photosensitizing, it is possible to use it in treatments even in the summer period.
In particular, the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line offers the Glycyrrhetic Peel, an exfoliant based on 10% glycyrrhetic acid, indicated for the treatment of sensitive and delicate skin affected by acne, atopic and seborrheic dermatitis and irritations in general. Indicated for the treatment of sensitive and delicate skin affected by acne, atopic and seborrheic dermatitis and irritations in general. Enriched with Phytodermina Whitening, it carries out a further and important hydrating, lightening and protective action, thus making it the complete and effective remedy in the treatment of this type of skin.
Buy it here Glycyrrhetic Peel
Practical Advice for Beauticians
Personalize Treatments
Each skin is unique, so it is essential to personalize treatments based on your clients' needs. Evaluate your skin type, specific problems and sensitivities before choosing which acid to use. A thorough consultation and skin analysis are essential to determine the most appropriate treatment. For example, for mature skin with sun spots, glycolic acid could be the ideal choice, while for acne-prone and oily skin, salicylic acid would be more suitable.
Educate Customers
Your clients may not know all the benefits of acids. Educate them on the importance of exfoliation, hydration and sun protection.
Explain to them how to integrate these ingredients into their daily routine and which products from the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line to use in their home skincare.
Also inform them about possible side effects, such as redness or sensitivity to the sun, and how to prevent and mitigate them.
Monitor and Adapt
Monitor your skin's response to treatments and be ready to adapt your strategies. If a client shows signs of irritation, reduce the frequency or concentration of acids. The key is patience and listening. Schedule regular check-in sessions to evaluate your progress and make any adjustments.
Each skin reacts differently, so it is crucial to be flexible and ready to modify the treatment if necessary. The SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line, thanks to its extensive range of products, offers the possibility of personalizing the treatment based on the needs of the individual client, always guaranteeing excellent results.
Alternate Acids in Cabin Sessions
Alternating between different types of acids during cabin sessions can be extremely beneficial, as each acid has unique properties that can complement each other.
Consider rotating acids on a weekly basis. For example, use glycolic acid one week, mandelic acid the next week, and salicylic acid the third week. This approach can help prevent excessive irritation and allow your skin to benefit from a variety of treatments.
Each skin is unique, so it is essential to personalize treatments based on your clients' needs. Evaluate your skin type, specific problems and sensitivities before choosing which acid to use. A thorough consultation and skin analysis are essential to determine the most appropriate treatment. For example, for mature skin with sun spots, glycolic acid could be the ideal choice, while for acne-prone and oily skin, salicylic acid would be more suitable.
Educate Customers
Your clients may not know all the benefits of acids. Educate them on the importance of exfoliation, hydration and sun protection.
Explain to them how to integrate these ingredients into their daily routine and which products from the SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line to use in their home skincare.
Also inform them about possible side effects, such as redness or sensitivity to the sun, and how to prevent and mitigate them.
Monitor and Adapt
Monitor your skin's response to treatments and be ready to adapt your strategies. If a client shows signs of irritation, reduce the frequency or concentration of acids. The key is patience and listening. Schedule regular check-in sessions to evaluate your progress and make any adjustments.
Each skin reacts differently, so it is crucial to be flexible and ready to modify the treatment if necessary. The SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line, thanks to its extensive range of products, offers the possibility of personalizing the treatment based on the needs of the individual client, always guaranteeing excellent results.
Alternate Acids in Cabin Sessions
Alternating between different types of acids during cabin sessions can be extremely beneficial, as each acid has unique properties that can complement each other.
Consider rotating acids on a weekly basis. For example, use glycolic acid one week, mandelic acid the next week, and salicylic acid the third week. This approach can help prevent excessive irritation and allow your skin to benefit from a variety of treatments.
Advice on Frequency and Concentration
- Gradual Start: Always start with shorter application times and lower concentrations, especially if your client has never used acids before. This will help minimize the risk of irritation and allow the skin to adapt gradually. The SkinSystem Dermocosmetic Line offers products with different percentages of acid concentration, ideal for offering personalized treatments for each customer.
- Observe Skin Reactions: Ask your clients to watch for any signs of irritation, such as redness, flaking or sensitivity. In case of adverse reactions, reduce the frequency or discontinue the use of acids temporarily.
- Safe Combinations: Make sure the acid combinations you recommend are safe and not too harsh on the skin. For example, avoid using glycolic acid and retinoic acid at the same time, as both can be irritating when used together.
To conclude:
Acids in cosmetics are powerful tools in the hands of an experienced beautician.
By knowing the benefits and ways of using various acids, you can offer personalized and effective treatments to your clients.
Alternating the various acids in the cabin sessions can enhance the results and adapt the treatments to the specific needs of the skin. Always remember to monitor the skin's response and educate your clients on how to care for their skin at home.
The satisfaction of your customers will be the best reflection of your professionalism and competence.
